Stain and seal your shelf following the instructions on the back of your cans. Then we sanded all of the plywood with 220-grit sandpaper to best prepare it for stain. Make sure to wait at least 15 minutes after ironing before sanding! If your plywood edging pulls up while your gently sanding, go back and apply more heat with the iron. The plywood should be pretty well sanded already, but here’s what we did.įirst we sanded the edges of the plywood edging using a sanding block to make the transition between the edging and the plywood was nice and smooth. Remember, you only need to put edging on the sides that will actually be seen. You can also rock the iron back and forth over the edge of the plywood to make sure that the edges are fully pressed down and adhered. Then run your iron at an angle across the edges of the plywood. Run your iron over the edging again to make sure it’s nice and secure. Once it feels pretty secure, flip your plywood over and run a sharp utility knife along the edge of the plywood to cut off the excess edging. Slowly run your iron along the edging until the adhesion starts to stick. Position your edging on the plywood, trying to center the overhang on all sides. Warm up your iron and turn on the steam option. Step 4: Add your plywood edgingĪdd the edging is pretty simple, but you need to make sure that every edge is nice and secure or it will peel off over time.Ĭut your plywood edging to be about an inch too long on either end. If you aren’t sure what that is, check out tip #3 in this post. Since we’re attaching plywood, there’s a small adjustment you need to make to the Kreg Jig. These will secure the back to both the bottom shelf and top. Then add 7 pocket holes on both the top and bottom of the back. These will be used to attach into the legs.Īdd 3 pocket holes on either end of the back. Place 4 pocket holes on either end of your bottom shelf. Only two of your pieces will actually get pocket holes. Become a pocket hole pro in less than an hour in Pocket Holes: Explained. Pocket holes are the foundation of most DIY furniture. You can get our measurements in the free PDF plans (available at the bottom of this post). We used our circular saw and track to get straight, clean cuts. Step 2: Cut your plywoodĬut your plywood to size. You’ll also want to measure how high the top of your washer and dryer are. Make sure to include the normal space that you have between them in your measurements. Measure how wide your washer and dryer are. Your washer/dryer might have different dimensions than ours. New to DIY? Download our free 5 Steps to Getting Start with DIY guide! STEP 1: Measure How to make a shelf behind your washer/dryer (yes, even if it’s top-loading!) Laundry folding table with sweater drying drawers.Fold-down drying rack (great for small spaces!).Looking for more DIY laundry room ideas? Don’t forget to check out these awesome tutorials. Not only will this shelf give you all the space to put your laundry detergent and dryer sheets, but it’ll also hide all of those unsightly cords that run behind your washer/dryer.Īnd just because you have a top loader doesn’t mean you can’t have a pretty (and practical) shelf above your washer and dryer. The shelves are deep enough to hold what you need, but won’t hit your washing machine. What better way to do both than to add a few shelves that would be able to hold everything we need for laundry? see all those plumbing clean-outs in the first photo? When we started our laundry room update, we had a few goals to keep in mind: add lots of storage and hide the plumbing clean-outs. This post contains affiliate links for your convenience (which means if you make a purchase after clicking a link, I earn a teeny-tiny commission, but it won’t cost you a penny more)! Click here to read our full disclosure.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |